Bowls was the best I’d personally seen (outside of photos in books) last weekend. After checking the surf at Honolii last Friday night my friend called. It was a toss up between the North and South sides. My friend had cooked some salmon so the choice was made easy and staying in a papaya field in Kapoho always sounds good to me.
A late night of laughs got us to shacks late, around 9am. Pros were still dominating the lineup when we got there and the tubes were car-sized. Instantly a feeling of fear and elation coursed my veins as I nervously pulled my board out and hurried out into the lineup. Arn was out there (aloha Arn). Ben was out there (aloha Ben) and it was obvious I’d have to step things up a bit.
Earning a spot in the lineup is in some ways easier when the waves are firing. In other ways, it’s much more dangerous as skill levels mix. After a few hours of killer drops my luck finally ran out and I got pitched. I hurt something inside me (no, not my pride). I think it had to do with the side-belly-flop I did and it was time to refuel anyway. The wind shifted, I went in and caught up with my friend.
The hour-long ride back to mountain view happens in seconds when you’re riding through the morning waves in your mind.
My friend just called and it looks like Bayfront is a possibility for the morning. I guess I’ll be sleeping in the truck downtown.
Tonight check out Nichols Pub. It’s a beautiful night for a revolution.
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